The Final Installment, August 20th and 21st
Mood:
lazy
Topic: Loving...
Leaving St. Thomas sucked. Big time. We woke up and tossed our luggage in the car, and sat down to enjoy our last "Wendy" breakfast, which included:
- granola with milk, green tea
- banana, strawberry, and pineapple frappe
- ginger pancakes with mango sauce and turkey bacon
She was so sweet to print me all the recipes of the breakfasts, and even bagged up the granola she made (which I enjoyed back at home after Puerto Rico, thinking of the sound of the ocean...). We hugged awkwardly goodbye, wished both she and Doug well, and made our final return trip through town to the airport.
We fortunately checked our stuff and ourselves fairly rapidly through customs, and arrived so early that the flight an hour before ours was boarding. With the recommendations of the flight attendants, we took the earlier flight instead, after calling Cisco in P. Rico to make sure we weren't fouling up his plans for the morning. The flight was quick and uneventful. and before we knew it, we had landed in cloudy Puerto Rico.
After a long wait for our luggage, Cisco picked us up in his gigantic van (a rare, and hot, commodity in the Caribbean, as they are very useful for business) and drove us 50-60 minutes past three girls with a flat tires (yes- the guys got out and helped), past a fried chicken place (yes, we stopped and sampled), all the way to the eastern coast of Puerto Rico- Fajardo. On the way, I noticed many America stores and restaurants, including McDonalds, Burger King, Sizzler, and Chilis. Cisco also pointed out, El Yunque, the only rainforest in the Northern Hemisphere, and Luquillo Beach, the most famous beach on the island, according to him.
We finally made it to Fajardo, which was a quiet town with many bakeries and eyeglass stores. All of the buildings are made of brick and are pastel colored. There were iron fences around and over everything, giving it an impenetrable feeling. When we got to Cisco's neighborhood, all the houses were the same shape exactly, differing only minutely in color and some in landscaping. While the neighborhood held much charm, you couldn't ignore the burned out, ravaged car down the street, and the thin, hungry dogs running through the neighborhood aimlessly.


At Cisco's, there was a cute backyard, a washer outside of the house, and he had put up a hammock. The inside consisted of a small kitchen, two bedrooms, a compter room, and a combined living room/dining room. I'm sure by Puerto Rico standards it was VERY nice.
After changing and freshening up, we drove a ways to a town in the mountains in the center of P.R., called Guavate- legendary for its streetside lechón restaurants. Here we encountered many people on scooters, motocycles, and motorbikes of all kinds- all equiped with blasting stereo systems. Each restaurant seemed to have its own live band, competing for listeners with the pulsing sounds of salsa, merengue, and reggaetón. Everywhere I looked, there were crazier and crazier outfits, and the looks from the men were very appreciative.
Of course I was the only gringa walking around.


Walter and Cisco enjoyed there local beer- the Medallia- very much, while Mita (Cisco's wife) and I waited in line for the lechón.

Rather disgusting looking, but at the time it tasted great! Even better were the side dishes:

Here was the spread:

Starting with the bottom left, we had:
- Patata- tasted like regular potato, only sweeter, but not as sweet as a yam.
- Blood sausage- spicy, filled with meat and rice... tasty, but not too tasty
- Totones de pava (aka breadfruit)- delicioso- mi favorito!
- Pork ribs- gag
- Arroz con condules- good, but typical tasting
- The lechón asado (aka pernil)- yummy!-- on top covering the roast is the crunchy skin, which was like a VERY greasy potato chip- one bite and then I spit it out.
- Best piña colada EVER!
After eating and wandering around, listening to the band, this viejo came up to Mita and asked her if I was "Miss Puerto Rico" because I was so beautiful. They really fall for the blondes down there.
In behind the restaurant, there was an open field with wild banana trees. Mita stopped to explain to us how the bananas grow. Also, we spotted many stray dogs.

We ended up driving back to the house, stuffed and sated, resting for a little bit, and changing rifght into our bathing suits for our trip to the Luminescent bay! The port where we took a small boat to the lagoon was called La Grande Cabeza de San Juan en Croabas, Fajardo.
At 9:30, Captain Mingo pulled up his small motor boat and loaded us and some very loud, nasally-sounding people from New Jersey. Poor Walter, I tried taking his picture, but it was pitch black- he hadn't a clue which direction I was in!
He motored us through a long mangrove lagoon, under trees filled with large iguanas. I was scared one might fall on my head! Once into the actual bay, we immediately noticed streams of light shooting away from either side of the boat like shooting stars. They were fish! According to Mingo, the water in the lagoon was 3 times saltier than the regular sea water, and out in the middle where he took us for our swim, there were no fish or large menacing creatures beneath us. The bioluminecence came from the invertebrates in the water (see my link above) and if you put your ear to the water you could actually hear noises that they made.
Walter, Cisco, and I hopped in the water for a dip, and marveled at the glowing patterns we could make with our arms and legs as we glided them through the warm and extremely salty water. One man, whose rude comments had grated on my nerves through the mangrove part of the tour, contrived to bump into Walter or I at least 15 times. I swear, it was on purpose and I wanted to push his head under water for at least a minute to get him to shut up.
After about 30 minutes in the water, we rreturned through the lagoon, to the dock, and towelled off, before driving back to the house. Once back at the house, we showered and got into bed, exhausted from all of our adventures.
At some point that night, Montezuma had his revenge on me! I have never been sicker in my life- I must have sat in the bathroom for hours, shaking with nausea and dizziness. I'll think twice before eating all that food again- lechón might not be for me. Finally, I fell asleep, exhausted and completely emptied.
August 21st
THe next morning I woke up feeling not so fresh, but tried to rehydrate with water and put on a happy face. We headed out to a local fast food restaurant, where I tried to eat an egg sandwich and mostly ate three plain pancakes. Today we were going to see El Yunque, the beautiful rainforest inhabited mostly by tourists and parrots, apparently. For most of El Yunque, you can drive through. There are various places to stop and take short hikes, which we did a couple times, much to my roiling stomach's consternation. I felt my blood pressure dip a few times, but toughed it out.
This photo kind of gives you an idea of what I was going through.

Here's the view though:

We hiked to a couple waterfalls... at this one, when climbing down, Walter caught a bad one, and kind of rolled down:

This one we had to hike down about 30 minutes to, and the guys were so hot that they waded in the frigid waters. These people were nuts to swim in it- it was ice cold!


When we had had enough of nature, we headed back to the house to change, put on bathings suits, and hit La Playa de Luquillo for a while. It was quite beautiful, but not, in my opinion, as nice as St. John.

You could see El Yunque in the back...

We had lunch, which for me consisted of a hot dog and a coule bites of a rello de papa, Walter's favorite.

There were men walking the beach with ice machines selling piraguas, which are shaved ice with syrup poured all over it. Walter loved them, but they were too sicky-sweet for me.

Once the hot sun was too overwhelming, we again headed back to the house and changed for an excursion to Old San Juan. This city is both beautiful and menacing in parts- with sections too dangerous for even the police to traverse. Near the old fort, we saw this interesting old cementery.

Walter was entraced by the richness of the fort and its surroundings.


As the sun set, my stomach grubled, and we headed into the city to find some good old fashioned Italian food, and something sweet for the queen of the Sweet Teeth. We found a very funky new Italian restaurant, and enjoyed both the food and the atmosphere.

Capped off with this...

Dinner finished too soon, and we drove back to Cisco and Mita's house, lost in our memories. We had such an amazing honeymoon, but it was time to pack up our belongings and head back to the real world. Thank God for Mita and Cisco, who helped us explore a huge portion of the wonders of Puerto Rico. What an amazing ride it was...
Posted by Jamie
at 7:52 PM EST
Updated: Sunday, 10 December 2006 7:59 PM EST